Q.
How important are clean and checks?
A.
All heating and cooling systems should be serviced
every year by a heating and cooling professional.
For
furnaces, your service technician should:
•Check
for leaks, soot, rust, corroded electrical contacts
and frayed wires.
•Perform any necessary cleaning, including the
burner and heat exchanger.
•Inspect the venting system and verify that it
is operating properly.
For heat pumps and air conditioners, your technician
should:
•Inspect
all electrical connections.
•Check the operation of the compressor and outdoor
fan motor.
•Inspect the indoor evaporator coil for cleanliness
and clean if necessary.
•Inspect the furnace or air handler blower assembly
for proper operation and cleanliness.
•Check the refrigerant level in the system.
If the air conditioning or heat pump refrigerant level
is low, a proper leak check should be performed, and
the leak should be repaired or the leaking component
should be replaced.
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Q.
What should an HVAC technician check on my system?
A. All heating and cooling systems
should be serviced every year by a heating and cooling
professional.
For
furnaces, your service technician should:
•Check
for leaks, soot, rust, corroded electrical contacts
and frayed wires.
•Perform any necessary cleaning, including the
burner and heat exchanger.
•Inspect the venting system and verify that it
is operating properly.
For heat pumps and air conditioners, your technician
should:
•Inspect
all electrical connections.
•Check the operation of the compressor and outdoor
fan motor.
•Inspect the indoor evaporator coil for cleanliness
and clean if necessary.
•Inspect the furnace or air handler blower assembly
for proper operation and cleanliness.
•Check the refrigerant level in the system.
If the air conditioning or heat pump refrigerant level
is low, a proper leak check should be performed, and
the leak should be repaired or the leaking component
should be replaced.
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Q. How
often should I change my furnace filter?
A.
Replace
your furnace filter at the start of every heating and
cooling season.
In
environments with high dust or pets, ask your technician
about the option of a high-efficiency air filter or
electronic air cleaner that may need to be replaced
just once a year. They work at least seven times better
than a standard filter at removing dust and other particles.
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Q.
What
to do if the air conditioning won't come on:
A.
1.If
you have no electricity, your air conditioner will not
work. Please call your utility company.
2.If you have a digital thermostat and it is not displaying
a temperature, replace your batteries in the thermostat.
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Furnace
troubleshooting
Q.
What
to do if the furnace won't come on:
A.
1.If
you smell gas, please contact the gas supplier from
your neighbor's phone. Do not light any appliance, touch
any electrical switch or use a phone inside your home.
If you cannot reach the gas supplier, please call 911.
2.If you have no electricity, your furnace will not
work. Please call your utility company.
3.If you have a digital thermostat and it is not displaying
a temperature, replace your batteries in the thermostat.
4.If the furnace is on, but no air is coming through
the vents, call a technician for repair work.
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Q.
What
is SEER?
A.
Buying
a new central air conditioning system is a major investment
- both financially and in your home's comfort. The average
split-system air conditioner will last around 16 years,
so you want to make sure you choose a system that you
will be happy with for a long time. Here are some tips
for choosing a central air conditioning system:
Buy
the highest SEER you can afford. SEER stands for Seasonal
Energy Efficiency Ratio and is a measurement of the
efficiency of your cooling system over the course of
a season. The higher the SEER rating, the higher the
efficiency. Systems purchased to prior to 2006 were
mostly in the 8 to 10 SEER range. In 2006, the minimum
efficiency was raised to 13 SEER. Today, air conditioners
such as the Frigidaire iQ Drive® system can be as
high as 24.5 SEER. A 13-SEER system is 30% more efficient
than a 10-SEER system, and a 24.5 SEER system is 145%
more efficient than a 10-SEER system.
Choose
R-410A refrigerant. Most older systems used a refrigerant
called R-22. In 2010, the new refrigerant standard became
R-410A. R-410A is more environmentally friendly than
past refrigerants because it does not deplete the ozone.
Choosing an R-410A system means you may also have to
replace your line set and your indoor coil, but you
will be getting the maximum efficiency out of your new
system.
Identify
the type of system you currently have. If you have an
outdoor section and an indoor section, you have a "split
system." The split system is the most common type
of system. In the central United States and Canada,
the indoor section is the coil box that sits on top
of your gas or oil furnace. (Many homeowners think this
is part of the furnace when it is actually the indoor
section to the air conditioner.) The furnace blower
is used to distribute cool air throughout the home.
In very hot southern regions, the indoor section is
typically an electric furnace or air handler. This product
has the blower and coil inside a single cabinet. If
you do not have an indoor section, you may have a "packaged"
air conditioner. Packaged units are found in select
regions. The packaged air conditioner contains the blower
and coil components all within the outdoor section and
may even provide gas heat or electric strip heat.
Replace
the entire system, not just the air conditioner. An
air conditioner typically has two components -- the
outdoor section and the indoor section as described
above. It may be tempting to replace only the outdoor
section. But in order for your system to achieve the
efficiency you're paying for, you need to have a matched
system that includes a new indoor coil. Additionally,
old indoor components can adversely impact the performance
of your air conditioner, and your new system warranty
could be canceled if it was not installed with the proper
indoor coil or air handler.
Consider
a heat pump. A heat pump works just like an air conditioner,
cooling you all summer long. But in the fall and early
spring, it can also provide cost-effective electric
heat. Many homeowners are choosing a split-system heat
pump over a split-system air conditioner and then pairing
it with a gas furnace. This dual-fuel system can save
you a lot of money because you heat with electricity
when the weather is mild and with gas when the temperatures
dip below freezing, so you are always using the most
cost-effective fuel source to heat your home. If you
have a packaged system, there are also dual-fuel packaged
systems that combine heat pump and gas heat technology.
Don't
skimp on the install. With a heating and cooling system,
the installation is absolutely critical to performance.
Make sure you hire a certified contractor who is going
to address your ductwork and other home needs in addition
to replacing equipment. A quality installation will
cost more upfront, but it will save you in service and
headaches down the road.
Think
about comfort. Many of the higher-end air conditioners
include extra features that will dramatically improve
your home's comfort. Two-stage systems can run at a
high and low stage, so they are quieter and provide
a better mix of air throughout the home (no hot and
cold spots). Also look for noise reduction features
such as compressor sound blankets and swept-wing fan
blades. Imagine not having to turn up the television
when the air conditioner kicks on.
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Q.
What
is difference between 410A & R-22 refrigerant
?
A. Buying a new central air conditioning
system is a major investment - both financially and
in your home's comfort. The average split-system air
conditioner will last around 16 years, so you want to
make sure you choose a system that you will be happy
with for a long time. Here are some tips for choosing
a central air conditioning system:
Buy
the highest SEER you can afford. SEER stands for Seasonal
Energy Efficiency Ratio and is a measurement of the
efficiency of your cooling system over the course of
a season. The higher the SEER rating, the higher the
efficiency. Systems purchased to prior to 2006 were
mostly in the 8 to 10 SEER range. In 2006, the minimum
efficiency was raised to 13 SEER. Today, air conditioners
such as the Frigidaire iQ Drive® system can be as
high as 24.5 SEER. A 13-SEER system is 30% more efficient
than a 10-SEER system, and a 24.5 SEER system is 145%
more efficient than a 10-SEER system.
Choose
R-410A refrigerant. Most older systems used a refrigerant
called R-22. In 2010, the new refrigerant standard became
R-410A. R-410A is more environmentally friendly than
past refrigerants because it does not deplete the ozone.
Choosing an R-410A system means you may also have to
replace your line set and your indoor coil, but you
will be getting the maximum efficiency out of your new
system.
Identify
the type of system you currently have. If you have an
outdoor section and an indoor section, you have a "split
system." The split system is the most common type
of system. In the central United States and Canada,
the indoor section is the coil box that sits on top
of your gas or oil furnace. (Many homeowners think this
is part of the furnace when it is actually the indoor
section to the air conditioner.) The furnace blower
is used to distribute cool air throughout the home.
In very hot southern regions, the indoor section is
typically an electric furnace or air handler. This product
has the blower and coil inside a single cabinet. If
you do not have an indoor section, you may have a "packaged"
air conditioner. Packaged units are found in select
regions. The packaged air conditioner contains the blower
and coil components all within the outdoor section and
may even provide gas heat or electric strip heat.
Replace
the entire system, not just the air conditioner. An
air conditioner typically has two components -- the
outdoor section and the indoor section as described
above. It may be tempting to replace only the outdoor
section. But in order for your system to achieve the
efficiency you're paying for, you need to have a matched
system that includes a new indoor coil. Additionally,
old indoor components can adversely impact the performance
of your air conditioner, and your new system warranty
could be canceled if it was not installed with the proper
indoor coil or air handler.
Consider
a heat pump. A heat pump works just like an air conditioner,
cooling you all summer long. But in the fall and early
spring, it can also provide cost-effective electric
heat. Many homeowners are choosing a split-system heat
pump over a split-system air conditioner and then pairing
it with a gas furnace. This dual-fuel system can save
you a lot of money because you heat with electricity
when the weather is mild and with gas when the temperatures
dip below freezing, so you are always using the most
cost-effective fuel source to heat your home. If you
have a packaged system, there are also dual-fuel packaged
systems that combine heat pump and gas heat technology.
Don't
skimp on the install. With a heating and cooling system,
the installation is absolutely critical to performance.
Make sure you hire a certified contractor who is going
to address your ductwork and other home needs in addition
to replacing equipment. A quality installation will
cost more upfront, but it will save you in service and
headaches down the road.
Think
about comfort. Many of the higher-end air conditioners
include extra features that will dramatically improve
your home's comfort. Two-stage systems can run at a
high and low stage, so they are quieter and provide
a better mix of air throughout the home (no hot and
cold spots). Also look for noise reduction features
such as compressor sound blankets and swept-wing fan
blades. Imagine not having to turn up the television
when the air conditioner kicks on.
Back
To Top
Q.
What type of air conditioner do
I have?
A.
Identify the type of system you currently have.
If you have an outdoor section and an indoor section,
you have a "split system." The split system
is the most common type of system. In the central United
States and Canada, the indoor section is the coil box
that sits on top of your gas or oil furnace. (Many homeowners
think this is part of the furnace when it is actually
the indoor section to the air conditioner.) The furnace
blower is used to distribute cool air throughout the
home. In very hot southern regions, the indoor section
is typically an electric furnace or air handler. This
product has the blower and coil inside a single cabinet.
If you do not have an indoor section, you may have a
"packaged" air conditioner. Packaged units
are found in select regions. The packaged air conditioner
contains the blower and coil components all within the
outdoor section and may even provide gas heat or electric
strip heat.
Back
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Q.
How
to select the right contractor ?
A.
There are two major influences on getting the best heating
and cooling system to fit your needs:
Know
what to ask the contractor. Because heating or cooling
purchases are infrequent, you may not be aware of the
various product solutions that are available to correct
common indoor comfort problems. If you do not speak
up, the contractor may assume you are not interested
in saving energy, lowering utility costs, or correcting
hot and cold spots in your home. Check out our tips
on what questions to ask.
Select
a skilled contractor. When it comes to central heating
and cooling, product performance and reliability greatly
depend on the contractor's ability to design and install
a system compatible for your home.
Here's
how to make sure you are selecting the right dealer
for your new heating and cooling system. An appropriately
sized system that is also installed correctly is critical
to performance and your happiness.
•Check
to see if the dealer possesses all of the appropriate
licensing for installing HVAC equipment in your state
and local area.
•Review the dealer's listing on the Better Business
Bureau.
•Ask how long they have been in business and if
they offer 24/7 service, financing or accept credit
cards.
•A dealer coming into your home should do more
than just inspect your existing system. Follow the dealer
around to see if he or she is checking air flow, inspecting
the duct system, making note of the windows and the
direction your home faces, etc.
•Be wary of anyone who quotes you a price on the
back of a business card after being in your home for
a few minutes, or even over the phone.
•A knowledgeable dealer that has your best interest
in mind will ask about your experiences in the home
-- how long you have lived there, how long you plan
to stay, if you have pets, allergies, smokers, hot and
cold spots and noise.
•A dealer with the tools to address these problems
will offer viable solutions such as air cleaners, zoning
equipment, programmable thermostats, humidifiers, variable
speed and two-stage technology. If they do not offer
these solutions, they may not be the right dealer for
you.
•It takes more time to complete an installation
when done correctly. Expect to pay more for comprehensive
service, but much less in the long run for your system's
performance and maintenance.
•Typically, manufacturer warranties cover the
replacement of faulty components for a limited time.
Failure due to poor installation is typically not warranted
by manufacturers. Select a dealer who will do a good
job the first time and be around to assist you as needed.
The Air Conditioning Contractors of America (ACCA) suggests
this worksheet to evaluate a potential contractor.
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Q.
What you can expect from your
contractor ?
A.
Here are the things you can expect a qualified heating
and cooling dealer to address when you are purchasing
a new system:
•Selecting
the type of system and equipment (plus operating and
safety controls) that are compatible with the architecture
of your home, fuel availability, fuel costs, the space
available for equipment and duct runs, appearance issues
and project cost.
•Calculating energy savings with a new system.
You may find that investing in a new energy-efficient
system with yield monthly savings greater than money
earned on a CD investment or savings account.
•Performing load or sizing calculations for each
room and the load on the central unit(s). New homes
are better insulated and do not have the same capacity
requirements as older homes. Over-sizing a unit can
contribute to uncomfortable temperatures and inefficient
performance.
•Using the proper industry manual procedures and
manufacturer's data to select, size and place equipment,
supply outlets, ducts and returns.
•Disposing of old equipment.
•Installing to local, state and federal codes
and utility regulations.
•Installing the indoor and outdoor equipment.
A split system is the most common installation.
•Installing the refrigerant lines.
•Installing supply air outlets and returns if
they do not exist or are inadequate.
•Installing duct runs (must be sealed and insulated
to R-6 or R-8 if in unconditioned space) if they do
not exist or are inadequate.
•Installing control system(s), such as thermostats
and/or zoning controls.
•Installing furnace gas piping and vent (if applicable).
•Charging the refrigerant system.
•Checking all control cycles.
•Checking refrigerant charge.
•Checking all power supplies, connections, fuel
trains and vents.
•Measuring and adjusting air flow at the unit
and at the rooms (balancing work).
•Educating the homeowner about the system and
equipment (provide all instructions and manufacturer's
documents, including warranties).
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Here
are some common heating and cooling terms and their
definitions. Getting up to speed on industry terms will
help you better understand your dealer’s proposal.
AFUE:
Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency. The AFUE percentage
tells you how much energy is being converted to heat.
The higher the number, the greater the efficiency.
Air
Handler: The portion of your heating
and cooling system that forces air through your home's
ductwork.
BTU:
British Thermal Units. The amount of heat it takes to
raise one pound of water one degree Fahrenheit. The
higher the BTU rating, the larger the heating capacity
of the furnace or air conditioner.
Capacity:
The ability of a heating or cooling system to heat or
cool a given amount of space. Heating is usually expressed
in BTUs; cooling is expressed in tons.
Certified
matched system: The Air Conditioning,
Heating and Refrigeration Institute (AHRI) puts heating
and cooling equipment through rigorous certification
processes to ensure systems deliver the promised performance
at certain test conditions.
Compressor:
The motor/pump that drives the air conditioning unit.
It is responsible for pumping refrigerant throughout
the system.
Condenser
Coil: Part of the outdoor portion of
a heating or cooling system, which releases or collects
heat from the outside air.
Damper:
A valve or moveable plate used in ductwork that opens
and closes to control airflow. They are used to direct
air to specific areas of the home.
Downflow:
A type of furnace that takes cool air from the top and
blows warm air to the bottom.
Ductwork:
Hollow metal pipes used to transfer air throughout your
house.
ecoLogic:
Frigidaire’s designation of green heating and
cooling equipment. Learn More About ecoLogic.
Electronic
Air Cleaner: An electronic device that
filters out particles and contaminants in indoor air.
Evaporator
Coil: Part of the heating or cooling
system located indoors that cools and dehumidifies the
air by converting liquid refrigerant into gas.
Heat
Exchanger: The major part of the furnace
that transfers heat into your home.
Heat
Pump: A unit that handles both heating
and cooling. In some climates, a heat pump may handle
your heating and cooling needs more efficiently than
a furnace and air conditioner.
Horizontal
Flow: A type of furnace, installed on
its side, which draws air from one side, heats the air
and then sends it out the other side.
HSPF:
Heating Seasonal Performance Factor. Measures the heating
efficiency of a heat pump. The higher the number, the
more efficient the heat pump heats your home.
Humidifier:
A piece of equipment that adds moisture to the air as
it comes out of the furnace.
HVAC:
Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning.
Refrigerant:
A chemical that cools air as it evaporates.
SEER:
Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio. SEER measures a unit's
cooling efficiency. The higher the number, the greater
the efficiency.
Single
Package: An outdoor unit that contains
both a heating and a cooling system.
Split
System: Refers to an air conditioner
or heat pump that is combined with indoor components,
such as an evaporator coil inside and a condenser coil
outside your home.
Thermostat:
A device that monitors and controls your temperature
inside your home.
Ton
(of air conditioning): A ton of air conditioning refers
to capacity in relation to melting one ton of ice in
24 hours. The capacity is measured in British Thermal
Units (Btu); 288,000 Btu are required to melt one ton
of ice in 24 hours (or 12,000 Btu/hr). A 2-ton air conditioner
has a nominal capacity of about 24,000 Btu/h.
Upflow:
A type of furnace that draws cool air from the bottom
and blows the warmed air out the top.
Ventilator:
A ventilator captures heating or cooling energy from
stale indoor air and transfers it to fresh incoming
air.
Zone:
Zoning allows you to control the heating and cooling
delivered to specific areas of your house for a custom
solution. Zoning can increase efficiency and comfort
in the area of the house you use most often.
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Q.
How to choose the right HVAC system
A.
There are two major influences on getting the best
system to fit your needs:
Select
a skilled contractor. When it comes to central heating
and cooling, product performance and reliability greatly
depend on the contractor's ability to design and install
a system compatible for your home. Check out our tips
on how to select the right contractor.
Have
an idea of what you want. Because heating or cooling
purchases are infrequent, you may not be aware of the
various product solutions that are available to correct
common indoor comfort problems. If you do not speak
up, the contractor may assume you are not interested
in saving energy, lowering utility costs, correcting
hot and cold spots in your home or a host of other solutions.
The
best way to purchase a system you will be most satisfied
with is to identify all the things that you would like
to improve on from your current system. Some contractors
will ask you these questions, but some may not. Therefore,
educate yourself what you want your system to do for
you.
An
HVAC purchase is a long-term commitment, so now is the
time to get the system that will satisfy your family's
needs. You can do this by reviewing the questions below.
Do
you want to lower your energy bills?
•If
you have high gas bills in the winter, ask about 95%
furnaces or higher.
•If you have high electric bills in the summer,
ask about 15 SEER or higher.
Would you like to reduce the amount of hot and cold
spots in your home?
•If
there are hot/cold spots predominately during mild temperature
days, then ask about your multi-stage options.
•Basic two-stage systems rely on two stages of
heating or cooling to give better comfort during mild
temperature days.
•Better two-stage systems use two stages of heating
and cooling plus a variable-speed blower to provide
more even temperature and fresh air in the home.
•The best is a modulating system that offers a
multitude of stages to provide the most precise temperature
control and comfort. Not all manufacturers have indoor
and outdoor modulating systems like Frigidaire.
Do you want to control temperature by room?
•Zoning
systems are designed to allow the homeowner to control
the temperature by room. You can zone as little as two
areas or you can zone up to eight. The ability to zone
your home, and the approach to zoning, may vary depending
on both the home layout and contractor skill.
Is it too humid in your home?
Does
it get too dry in the home?
Do
you have pets and the resulting dust and dander?
Is
dust a problem in your home?
Does
anyone in your family have allergies?
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Q.
What is Central air conditioning
?
A.
Central air conditioning, commonly referred to as central
air (U.S.) or air-con (UK), is an air conditioning system
that uses ducts to distribute cooled and/or dehumidified
air to more than one room, or uses pipes to distribute
chilled water to heat exchangers in more than one room,
and which is not plugged into a standard electrical
outlet.
With
a typical split system, the condenser and compressor
are located in an outdoor unit; the evaporator is mounted
in the air handler unit. With a package system, all
components are located in a single outdoor unit that
may be located on the ground or roof.
Central
air conditioning performs like a regular air conditioner
but has several added benefits:
When
the air handling unit turns on, room air is drawn in
from various parts of the building through return-air
ducts. This air is pulled through a filter where airborne
particles such as dust and lint are removed. Sophisticated
filters may remove microscopic pollutants as well. The
filtered air is routed to air supply ductwork that carries
it back to rooms. Whenever the air conditioner is running,
this cycle repeats continually.
Because the condenser unit (with its fan and the compressor)
is located outside the home, it offers a lower level
of indoor noise than a free-standing air conditioning
unit.
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Q.
What is Air Handler ?
A.
An air handler, or air handling unit (often abbreviated
to AHU), is a device used to condition and circulate
air as part of a heating, ventilating, and air-conditioning
(HVAC) system. An air handler is usually a large metal
box containing a blower, heating or cooling elements,
filter racks or chambers, sound attenuators, and dampers.
Air handlers usually connect to ductwork that distributes
the conditioned air through the building and returns
it to the AHU. Sometimes AHUs discharge (supply) and
admit (return) air directly to and from the space served
without ductwork.
Small
air handlers, for local use, are called terminal units,
and may only include an air filter, coil, and blower;
these simple terminal units are called blower coils
or fan coil units. A larger air handler that conditions
100% outside air, and no recirculated air, is known
as a makeup air unit (MAU). An air handler designed
for outdoor use, typically on roofs, is known as a packaged
unit (PU) or rooftop unit (RTU).
Blower/fanAir
handlers typically employ a large squirrel
cage blower driven by an AC induction electric motor
to move the air. The blower may operate at a single
speed, offer a variety of set speeds, or be driven by
a Variable Frequency Drive to allow a wide range of
air flow rates. Flow rate may also be controlled by
inlet vanes or outlet dampers on the fan. Some residential
air handlers (central 'furnaces' or 'air conditioners')
use a brushless DC electric motor that has variable
speed capabilities.
Multiple
blowers may be present in large commercial air handling
units, typically placed at the end of the AHU and the
beginning of the supply ductwork (therefore also called
"supply fans"). They are often augmented by
fans in the return air duct ("return fans")
pushing the air into the AHU.
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Q.
What is A Heat Pump ?
A
heat pump is a machine or device that diverts heat from
one location (the 'source') at a lower temperature to
another location (the 'sink' or 'heat sink') at a higher
temperature using mechanical work or a high-temperature
heat source.A heat pump can be used to provide heating
or cooling. Even though the heat pump can heat, it still
uses the same basic refrigeration cycle to do this.
In other words a heat pump can change which coil is
the condenser and which the evaporator. This is normally
achieved by a reversing valve. In cooler climates it
is common to have heat pumps that are designed only
to provide heating.
Common
examples are food refrigerators and freezers, air conditioners,
and reversible-cycle heat pumps for providing building
space heating. In heating, ventilation, and air conditioning
(HVAC) applications, a heat pump normally refers to
a vapor-compression refrigeration device that includes
a reversing valve and optimized heat exchangers so that
the direction of heat flow may be reversed. Most commonly,
heat pumps draw heat from the air or from the ground.
Heat
pumps have the ability to move heat energy from one
environment to another, and in either direction. This
allows the heat pump to bring heat into an occupied
space, or to take it out. In the cooling mode a heat
pump works the same as an ordinary air conditioner (A/C).
A heat pump uses an intermediate fluid called a refrigerant
which absorbs heat as it vaporizes and releases the
heat when it is condensed. It uses an evaporator to
absorb heat from inside an occupied space and rejects
this heat to the outside through the condenser. The
refrigerant flows outside of the space to be conditioned,
where the condenser and compressor are located, while
the evaporator is inside. The key component that makes
a heat pump different from an air conditioner is the
reversing valve. The reversing valve allows for the
flow direction of the refrigerant to be changed. This
allows the heat to be pumped in either direction.[citation
needed]
In
heating mode the outdoor coil becomes the evaporator,
while the indoor becomes the condenser which absorbs
the heat from the refrigerant and dissipates to the
air flowing through it. The air outside even at 0 °C
(or at any temperature above absolute zero) has heat
energy in it. With the refrigerant flowing in the opposite
direction the evaporator (outdoor coil) is absorbing
the heat from the air and moving it inside. Once it
picks up heat it is compressed and then sent to the
condenser (indoor coil). The indoor coil then injects
the heat into the air handler, which moves the heated
air throughout the house.
In cooling mode the outdoor coil is now the condenser.
This makes the indoor coil now the evaporator. The indoor
coil is now the evaporator in the sense that it is going
to be used to absorb the heat from inside the enclosed
space. The evaporator absorbs the heat from the inside,
and takes it to the condenser where it is rejected into
the outside air.
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Q.
What Is A Condenser?
What
is a condenser? Many people have air conditioners but
are not aware of how or what makes them work. A condenser
is simply one component of an air conditioner. Whether
you have an outdoor air conditioner or a window unit
air conditioner your air conditioner contains a condenser.
Condensers
are used in outdoor air conditioning systems as well
as heat pump systems. Condensers in an air conditioning
unit have very few controls. They will have an on and
off switch. Occasionally these air conditioners will
also have a brown out option. This option shuts down
the compressor when the electrical current is low.
A
condenser is simply a heat exchanger. It compresses
refrigerants into a hot gas to then condense them into
a liquid. A condenser is a major component in a air
conditioning or heat pump unit. It moves air across
the coils to facilitate the transfer of heat.
In
a heat pump unit the condenser has a few more features.
It will have a reverse valve that allows the unit to
switch back and forth between air conditioning and heating.
Even when the unit is heating, it uses the condenser
for defrosting the coils. If the coils become layered
with frost it will effect the units effectiveness this
is defrosted when the reverse valve switches to air
conditioning mode to move the hot gases through the
coils melting the built up ice. It will automatically
switch back to heating mode once the ice is cleared
to once again heat the home.
It
is very important no matter what type of unit you have
to prevent the blockage of the condenser. If the condenser
becomes block it can effect the units efficiency or
even cause the until to completely fail. For this reason
it is one of the most important components of a cooling
or heating system. A condenser allows the maximum airflow
to the unit.
To
keep your unit in good operating condition it is vital
to keep the area around the condenser clear of all debris
as well as keeping the filter clear of dust and dirt.
A clean machine makes a happy machine. A happy machine
will keep you cool during the summer months and warm
during the cold months. It is suggested to change the
units filters when they become dirty, depending on your
area and conditions near your home this may be as often
as once a month or as seldom as every 3 to 6 months.
You will have to pay close attention to your units needs
to decide the right time to change or clean your units
filters.
Keeping
you condenser in good running condition will not only
prolong the life of your heat or cooling system but
also provide you with the most efficient heat and cooling
system saving you money on heat and cooling.
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What
Is an Air Compressor ?
An
air compressor increases the amount of air in a particular
space. By packing in the air, the air pressure is increased
which creates a force that is useful for a variety of
purposes, from industrial and manufacturing to commercial
and personal purposes.
The
original air compressor is the lung. When you take a
deep breath to blow out your birthday candles, for example,
you're increasing the pressure of the air in your lungs,
which effectively is an air compressor containing pressurized
air. You then use the force of the air in your lungs
to blow out the flames of your birthday candles.
Eventually,
man-made air compressors were created. These fall generally
fall into one of two types, positive displacement or
dynamic, defined by its mode of operation. A positive
displacement air compressor works by filling and then
emptying an air chamber. Three common types of positive
displacement air compressors are: reciprocating, rotary
screw and rotary sliding vane. A dynamic air compressor,
on the other hand, uses a a rotating device to accelerate
and then decelerate air. This process uses the speed
or velocity of the air to increase the air's pressure.
Centrifugal air compressors are dynamic air compressors.
Compressed
air can be used in a variety of ways. It can be used
to alter the chemical composition as in the case of
making fertilizer or it can be used for industrial purposes
like production line manufacturing processes or it can
be used to maintain industrial plants. Perhaps the most
well known use of the air compressor is in the case
of pneumatic tools like air powered nail guns, staplers,
sanders, spray guns, or ratchet wrenches. Air compressors
can also be used to move debris. These tools are commonly
available at hardware stores for purchase or rental.
Another
way to group air compressor types is by the number of
stages it has. A two-stage air compressor is usually
used for heavy duty use. This type of unit offers a
higher level of compression than smaller, single stage
air compressors. A two-stage air compressor can store
air for future use, and is more energy efficient since
it produces more air per unit of horsepower than a single
stage compressor. Also, less heat is generated in a
two-stage compressor, which means that wear on the unit
is reduced. Portable electric air compressors are also
available for light-duty applications.
Depending
on the type of air compressor, operation costs can be
high, as in the case of plant maintenance. While air
compressors can run on manual labor, like a hand powered
air compressors, most run on either electricity or natural
gas. It's the natural gas air compressor that is usually
more cost-effective. If the air compressor is used in
a small, enclosed area, an electric model may be more
desirable in order to avoid gas fumes.
The
American Society of Mechanical Engineers (ASME) attests
to the quality and protective features of air compressors.
Their rating can be considered in evaluating air compressors
for purchase or rental. In some states, only ASME-certified
air compressors may be sold. Some safety features include
a safety relief valve, which lets air escape if the
tank's pressure exceeds the maximum. The air compressor
should also have a belt guard for protection, and an
enclosed air intake filtration system.
As
with all tools, proper safety should exercised when
using an air compressor. When not being used, air compressors
should be properly powered off and unplugged.
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How
does the heat work In central Air conditioners as Heat
Pumps?
Heat
pumps and most central air conditioners are called "split
systems" because there is an outdoor unit (called
a condenser) and an indoor unit (an evaporator coil).
The job of the heat pump or air conditioner is to transport
heat from one of these units to the other. In the summer,
for example, the system extracts heat from indoor air
and transfers it outside, leaving cooled indoor air
to be recirculated through your ducts by a fan.
A
substance called a refrigerant carries the heat from
one area to another. Basically, here's how it works:
The
compressor in your outdoor unit will change the gaseous
refrigerant into a high temperature, high-pressure gas.
As that gas flows through the outdoor coil, it loses
heat. That makes the refrigerant condense into a high
temperature, high pressure liquid that flows through
copper tubing into the evaporator coil located in your
fan coil unit or attached to your furnace.
At
that point, the liquid refrigerant is allowed to expand,
turning the liquid refrigerant into a low temperature,
low pressure gas. The gas then absorbs heat from the
air circulating in your home's ductwork, leaving it
full of cooler air to be distributed throughout the
house. Meanwhile, the low temperature, low pressure
refrigerant gas returns to the compressor to begin the
cycle all over again.
While
your air conditioner or heat pump cools the air, it
also dehumidifies it. That's because warm air passing
over the indoor evaporator coil cannot hold as much
moisture as it carried at a higher temperature, before
it was cooled. The extra moisture condenses on the outside
of the coils and is carried away through a drain. The
process is similar to what happens on a hot, humid day,
when condensed moisture beads up on the outside of a
glass of cold lemonade.
The
same process works in reverse in a heat pump during
the winter. The heat pump takes heat out of the outside
air - or out of the ground, if you have a geothermal
heat pump - and it moves that heat inside, where it
is transferred from the evaporator coil to the air circulating
through your home.
That's
not a typographical error, by the way- the heat pump
moves heat from outside to warm your home, even on a
cold day. That's because "cold" is a relative
term. Air as cold as 30 degrees still contains a great
deal of heat - the temperature at which air no longer
carries any heat is well below -200 degrees Fahrenheit.
A heat pump's heat exchanger can squeeze heat out of
cold air, then transfer that heat into your home with
the help of a fan which circulates the warm air through
your ducts.
Heat
pumps are often installed with back-up electric resistance
heat or a furnace to handle heating requirements when
more heat is needed than the heat pump can efficiently
extract from the air.
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What's the best way to
ensure that the central air-conditioning system you
choose is installed properly, and will provide the most
efficient and reliable cooling for your home?
The
pointers below can help you to find the right hardware
and the right technician to install your system, whether
you're replacing an older air conditioner or installing
one for the first time. The information comes from our
experts.
And
while there's no one money-saving strategy that will
work for everyone all the time, there are simple steps
that you can take, as we show in Keeping costs down.
In some cases, you may be able to cut back on air-conditioner
use considerably without seriously inconveniencing your
family.
Design
In a "split system," the typical design, refrigerant
circulates between an indoor coil and a matching outdoor
condenser with compressor. The refrigerant cools the
air, dehumidifying it in the process; a blower circulates
air through ducts throughout the house. A variation
is the "heat pump," a type of system that
functions as heater and cooler. When used as an air
conditioner, a heat pump discharges heat from the house
either into the air or deep into the ground. In the
winter, a heat pump extracts heat from the ground or
the air to warm the house.
Efficiency
This describes how much cooling the unit delivers for
each watt of electricity. Efficiency is expressed as
the Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating, or SEER. At present,
a SEER of 10 denotes a low-efficiency unit; medium efficiency
is 11 to 14; high efficiency is above 14. New federal
regulations that took effect in 2006 set the minimum
SEER for a central air conditioner at 13.
Size
A synonym for the air conditioner's cooling capacity,
size is measured in British thermal units per hour (Btu/hr.)
or in "tons." One ton of cooling equals 12,000
Btu/hr.
Get
the right contractor
Finding a trustworthy contractor to install and service
an air-conditioning system matters the most. Here's
how to choose:
Ask
around
Seek referrals from neighbors, family, or business associates.
It's wise to get price quotes from at least three contractors.
Check
the background
Contractors who bid on your installation should show
you proof of bonding and insurance, plus any required
contractor's licenses. Check with your local Better
Business Bureau and consumer affairs office for complaint
records. It's a plus if technicians are certified by
a trade organization, such as North American Technician
Excellence or HVAC Excellence, to service residential
heating and cooling equipment. These and other similar
programs assess the technician's knowledge of specific
types of equipment and its proper service methods. We
believe that a contractor who has made the effort to
get certified and has practiced this trade and learned
from several years of service and installation experience,
will be a better service provider.
Get
specifics
Contractors who bid on your job should calculate required
cooling capacity by using a recognized method like the
Air Conditioning Contractors of America's Residential
Load Calculation Manual, also called Manual J. An additional
reference for assessing ductwork needs is Manual D.
The calculations produce a detailed room-by-room analysis
of cooling needs. Ask for a printout of all calculations
and assumptions, including ductwork design. Be leery
of a contractor who bases estimates merely on house
size or vague rules of thumb.
Expect
maintenance
A service plan that combines regular inspections with
discounts on repairs and a labor warranty is worth negotiating
into the overall price. Prices for such service vary
widely.
At
a minimum, regular inspections should include these
steps:
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